3. For GameStar
The GameStar model HDD adapter is also a "thin" version. It's very close to the SCPH-10350 version, with a few tweaks.
The GameStar adapter comes in many hardware revisions. It is known that some older revisions perform poorly with high UDMA settings. It's highly recommended that you perform some tests before modding the adapter. If your games freeze while loading in OPL, try reducing the DMA mode in the game settings.
I had to go down to UDMA 2 instead of 4 in order to make one of mine work properly. But once it's done, it will work just fine. In contrast, the other newer one worked out of the box without any hitch.
Example of BAD SATA board rev:
Example of GOOD SATA board rev:
Since this model only has the main board, it allows for the tallest 2.5-inch SATA drive to be compatible.
The 2.5-inch SATA drives come in two groups of height and 4 sizes:
- Group 1
- 7mm (very common)
- 9.5mm (very common)
- Group 2
- 12.5mm (rare)
- 15mm (only high capacity drives)
Each group has one corresponding faceplate designed for them.
Each group has two tray covers for the two different heights.
In case you plan to use two heights from the same group (very likely group 1), print the tray cover for the higher size (9.5mm or 15mm). Then print the "Tray Height Adapter" that goes on top of the lower height drive, and insert it together with that drive.
Boards
- GameStar Main & SATA board (Disassembly guide below)
3D Printed shell
- STL files - Link
- Out shell (of your choice of height, color match)
- Inner Tray Cover (of your choice of height)
- Inner Tray (Long or short, of your choice)
- Tray Height Adapter (optional)
- AIO file (contains the following files, don't double print)
- Inner Shell
- Inner Spacer
- Main PCB Cover
- SATA Board Cover
Screws
- M2/M3 stainless steel hex head screw & nuts - Link
- [2x] M2x12mm screw & nut
- [1x] M3x8mm screw & nut
- [2x] M3x20mm screws
- (Optional) [2x] M3x8mm screw & nut
Cables
- Flat flex cable. 50-pin, 0.5mm pitch, 203mm(8-inch) long, type B - Link
- JST PH cable. 5-pin. - Link
- [2x] JST PH header housing
- [5x] Pre-crimped JST cable. 15cm long.
- Or just by a pre-made 15cm one. Make sure the ends are inverted.
Undo the 4 big and 2 small screws to remove the metal plate.
The main board will easily come loose. Undo the two black screws to free the SATA board.
Unplug the JST power cable and the the short FFC.
The FFC connector is the flappy type. Flip the black tab outwards to free the FFC.
If you wish to color-match the PS2, only the "Outer Shell" piece needs to be printed in the correct color and highest quality.
All parts have been pre-rotated to their printing-friendly orientations.
Only the iconic PS2 accent ridges on the "Outer Shell" pieces require support. In order to avoid supports everywhere else, try setting "Minimum Support Area" to 35mm^2 in order to avoid unnecessary supporting on the lettering and screw holes.
File "AIO for GameStar.stl" combines the following files into one print to save you some time arranging these pieces to fit on the printing bed.
- Main PCB Cover.stl
- Inner Shell.stl
- Inner Spacer.stl
- SATA Board Cover.stl
IF you are encountering lifted corners on some of the shape angles, try the following settings in Cura (or similar ones in your own slicer software:
- Z Seam Alignment: Sharpest Corner
- Seam Corner Preference: Hide Seam
A short version of the inner tray is available. It's 1/3 smaller than the original design and saves around 30 grams of plastic.
Both the FFC and JST cables used are different on the two sides when you lay it down flat. Make sure you bought the correct cable or you will risk damaging things!
The 8-inch flex cable is slightly longer than required but it's the only close standard length one can buy. You need to fold it in a specific way to make installation painless.
I've created a 1:1 Folding Guide you can print on paper and cut out. Make sure to:
- Print at 100% zoom.
- Measure & verify the size of the FFC print before proceeding.
The guide is for SCPH-10350, but it is compatible with the GameStar.
Carefully follow the instructions on the guide.
Use a credit card to help folding along the lines. NEVER fold & crease the cable directly onto itself to avoid damaging the conductors inside.
Tape the two sections flat so the cable stays in a nice way for installation.
If you decided to buy parts of the cable and assemble yourself, make sure it's done properly.
Insert the cables correctly as indicated in the picture.
Make sure the headers on the two ends face DIFFERENT directions when the cables are parallel. Nothing good will come out if you made the cable in the wrong way.
NOTE: Models have been improved and the version you downloaded may look very different from the ones in the photos, but they are assembled in the same way.
Lay the SATA Board Cover piece over the SATA board.
Slide the board with the cover piece down into the slot in the Inner Tray.
The screw holes are for [2x] M3x8mm screw & nut, however it's totally optional and I think it's better to NOT fasten it down.
Insert both cables through the slit and out from the other end. Note the flat side of the tray cover is the outside, and the slanted side is the inside of the PS2. For the FFC, the end you folded first is on the outside.
The FFC connector is the flappy type. Open the flap outwards, insert the FFC, and close it inwards to secure the FFC.
I find it easier if you hold the tray cover up when trying to insert the FFC into the SATA board.
Insert the JST power cable and bend it down.
Adjust and make sure the bend of the JST cable and FFC are flush to the top of the inner tray. If they stick out from the top, you will have issues sliding the tray into the PS2.
Overlap the Inner Spacer piece onto the Inner Shell piece. Run two M2x12mm screws through them so they don't easily come apart.
Slide the two pieces together from the rear end of the tray.
Fit the main board into the inside of the Inner Shell. Make sure the two M2 screws also go through the main board properly.
Twist two M2 nuts onto the protruding M2 screws. Put a M3x8mm screw through the front and a nut on the back.
Secure all screws. Do NOT over-tighten them.
Insert the FFC into the flappy type connector. Then insert the JST cable.
Make sure the cables are routed clear of the edge and corner indicated in the photo. Otherwise the front shell won't be able to close properly, and the cables might be damaged.
Slide the assembly into the PS2 drive bay. Make sure the JST cable and FFC are not caught by the top of the chassis.
Push the main board inwards at the indicated spot to make sure the plug on the inside seats properly into the PS2.
Install the outer shell onto the front of the assembly. Insert two M3x20mm screws into the screw holes and secure the outer shell.
Hold the outer shell with one hand while tightening down the screws, so the outer shell doesn't become loose and crooked.
Slide the hard drive all the way in and push.
The drive should sit slightly deeper than the outside surface.
This finishes the installation.
If the drive appears to be difficult to pull out, add a small loop of tape to the tail of the drive to help.
