diff --git a/.vscode/settings.json b/.vscode/settings.json
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..cba09c89c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.vscode/settings.json
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+{
+ "cSpell.words": [
+ "Dring",
+ "gcode"
+ ]
+}
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/docs/electronics/jackpot.md b/docs/electronics/jackpot.md
index 3922f01d9..e95573d9a 100644
--- a/docs/electronics/jackpot.md
+++ b/docs/electronics/jackpot.md
@@ -130,15 +130,15 @@ If you bought your Jackpot CNC Controller from the [V1E.com](https://www.v1e.com
{: loading=lazy width="500"}
-This Interface is from the [ESP3D WebUI project](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D-WEBUI). This interface allows for wireless machine jogging, custom macros, quick buttons for any of the Jackpot’s outputs, terminal control, file system control, UI and board configs, all in one place. You can update the firmware, GUI, and board settings all from the WebUI.You can wirelessly transfer your gcode files, but manually using the MicoSD card is still preferred. Most will probably never even plug the USB port in.
+This Interface is from the [ESP3D WebUI project](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D-WEBUI). This interface allows for wireless machine jogging, custom macros, quick buttons for any of the Jackpot’s outputs, terminal control, file system control, UI and board configs, all in one place. You can update the firmware, GUI, and board settings all from the WebUI.You can wirelessly transfer your gcode files, but manually using the MicroSD card is still preferred. Most will probably never even plug the USB port in.
??? example "Control Options"
The Jackpot Control board can use most any control software that supports GRBL such as CNC.js or Lightburn, although most people will likely use the built in WebUI's wireless connection. This can be used from most any device that has a web browser. If you are using a small touchscreen you can even zoom in so the buttons are easier to hit.
-We typically use the Jackpot board in AP mode (access point), this is a direct connection between your web enabled device and the board itself. No internet conenction is used in this case, this is a direct connection to the Jackpot only. Touch screens work (with zoom), or keyboard and mouse will work just as well.
+We typically use the Jackpot board in AP mode (access point), this is a direct connection between your web enabled device and the board itself. No internet connection is used in this case, this is a direct connection to the Jackpot only. Touch screens work (with zoom), or keyboard and mouse will work just as well.
??? Info "Other Networking Options"
- You can also configure your device in STA mode, http://fluid.local, if you have a strong signal to your home WiFi network. This will get your board connected to your local network. This is advanced and not reccomended unless you are very confident in your networking setup. It is not reccomended to use STA mode until you are familiar with how the firmware and your machine work as it is very difficult to support and troubleshoot network issues. Please stick to AP mode until everything is stable with your workflow.
+ You can also configure your device in STA mode, http://fluid.local, if you have a strong signal to your home WiFi network. This will get your board connected to your local network. This is advanced and not recommended unless you are very confident in your networking setup. It is not recommended to use STA mode until you are familiar with how the firmware and your machine work as it is very difficult to support and troubleshoot network issues. Please stick to AP mode until everything is stable with your workflow.
### Tests
@@ -162,7 +162,7 @@ It is important to note the endstops are only active during the homing procedure
### Auto Square
-Auto Square on this board is as easy as editing each endstop indivdually directly from the "Config" section of the WebUI (or directly to the yaml file).
+Auto Square on this board is as easy as editing each endstop individually directly from the "Config" section of the WebUI (or directly to the yaml file).
{: loading=lazy width="400"}
@@ -170,7 +170,7 @@ From there you have a "pulloff_mm" setting for each endstop. This setting is how
{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-Be sure to **save** your edits at the bottom of the config screen, and then by also using the red save button (macro) on the homescreen!
+Be sure to **save** your edits at the bottom of the config screen, and then by also using the red save button (macro) on the home screen!
### Terminal Commands
Here are some other useful terminal commands, for a full list please see the [FluidNC Wiki](http://wiki.fluidnc.com/).
@@ -250,9 +250,9 @@ Quick note, **gpio.26** can have a quick pulse when starting. If you are using a
## Firmware
If you bought it from the V1E.com store it should be ready to go. This section is in case you want to update or start fresh.
-V1 Engineering specific files - Keep an eye on this page or you can even subscribe to updates to know anytime the configuration files have changed, [Config and macros are here](https://github.com/V1EngineeringInc/FluidNC_Configs). **The Current tested and confimed files are in the V2 folder for your machine type** You need to download these to load them after flashing.
+V1 Engineering specific files - Keep an eye on this page or you can even subscribe to updates to know anytime the configuration files have changed, [Config and macros are here](https://github.com/V1EngineeringInc/FluidNC_Configs). **The Current tested and confirmed files are in the V2 folder for your machine type** You need to download these to load them after flashing.
-FluidNC Firmware - **The Current tested and confimed FluidNC version is 3.9.1**, use anything newer than this with caution. 11/1/2024- Configs updated as well, good idea to update them as well. Be sure to test homing after updates as some of the numbers have changed, also take note of your pull off values to keep things level and square after an update.
+FluidNC Firmware - **The Current tested and confirmed FluidNC version is 3.9.1**, use anything newer than this with caution. 11/1/2024- Configs updated as well, good idea to update them as well. Be sure to test homing after updates as some of the numbers have changed, also take note of your pull off values to keep things level and square after an update.
### Updating / Installing Firmware
@@ -343,7 +343,7 @@ This can be a tough topic. It goes very deep but lets keep it simple, here are t
#### SKR Pro
* Has more onboard IO, this lets you plug more things in without an expansion port, but firmware edits, a recompile, and flash will be needed to use them.
* When ordered from V1E.com comes with a wired LCD screen instead of using a web capable device.
-* Uses Marlin Firmware, tried and true, but a bit more complcated to edit if needed.
+* Uses Marlin Firmware, tried and true, but a bit more complicated to edit if needed.
The Jackpot CNC Controller was developed by Bart Dring (FluidNC) and myself, with the biggest notable change being TMC2209 drivers using less I/O in FluidNC. The new board and FluidNC firmware revision were further refined with help from a lot of great community member here in the V1E.com forums. It has everything we need in one package with a few sensible extra ports. This is how you get the best bang for the buck in a
small footprint. If you ask me, I will honestly recommend the Jackpot, by far. The main feature people seem to buy the SKR for anymore is the wired LCD screen. The Jackpot can also have
diff --git a/docs/electronics/skrpro.md b/docs/electronics/skrpro.md
index 7ec336aea..2d872a1ed 100644
--- a/docs/electronics/skrpro.md
+++ b/docs/electronics/skrpro.md
@@ -42,7 +42,7 @@ one jumper on the black (UART) pins. **There is no need to monkey with the tiny
{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-The completed board looks like this. Notice there are no jumpers under the drivers. **Lowrider and MPCNC builds will have only 5 drivers**, MP3DP uses 6.
+The completed board looks like this. Notice there are no jumpers under the drivers. **LowRider and MPCNC builds will have only 5 drivers**, MP3DP uses 6.
{: loading=lazy width="400"}
@@ -145,7 +145,7 @@ Closed" (NC), this is the outer two tabs on the endstops, we do not use the midd
Optical endstops are not recommended on a machine used for milling or routing. The debris can inhibit their function.
!!! Troubleshooting End Stops
- There is a known issue on **OLDER** SKR Pro1.2 boards where a small percentage of boards intermittently do not trigger a stop in the firmware. The technical reason is the on board circuit was designed with a voltage divider that is on the edge of the microprocessors HIGH/LOW signal limit. This results in random missing of the stop signal. A symtom of this is that one or more of the steppers keep driving after the limit switch triggers. You will find the stop LEDs on the SKR board will illuminate, but the firmware does not react. This is discussed in [this thread](https://forum.v1e.com/t/firmware-issues/39109/5) There are a few ways to address this: 1) Replace the SKR board. 2) Solder 1.5K ohm resistors on the bottom of the board. 3) Modify the end stop wires to add the 1.5K ohm resistor.
+ There is a known issue on **OLDER** SKR Pro1.2 boards where a small percentage of boards intermittently do not trigger a stop in the firmware. The technical reason is the on board circuit was designed with a voltage divider that is on the edge of the microprocessors HIGH/LOW signal limit. This results in random missing of the stop signal. A symptom of this is that one or more of the steppers keep driving after the limit switch triggers. You will find the stop LEDs on the SKR board will illuminate, but the firmware does not react. This is discussed in [this thread](https://forum.v1e.com/t/firmware-issues/39109/5) There are a few ways to address this: 1) Replace the SKR board. 2) Solder 1.5K ohm resistors on the bottom of the board. 3) Modify the end stop wires to add the 1.5K ohm resistor.
### MPCNC Endstops
{: loading=lazy width="400"}
@@ -154,7 +154,7 @@ Optical endstops are not recommended on a machine used for milling or routing. T
{: loading=lazy width="400"}
!!! note
- Do not use the + (positive) pins or you will ruin your SKR Pro board. These are only used whith powered endstops, and those are uncommon.
+ Do not use the + (positive) pins or you will ruin your SKR Pro board. These are only used with powered endstops, and those are uncommon.
## Firmware
@@ -241,6 +241,6 @@ Box for the [TFT35 E3 V3](https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/74330-tft35-e3-v3
Available [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4678675) on Thingiverse.
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
\ No newline at end of file
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/docs/img/old/2015/05/eSide.png b/docs/img/old/2015/05/eSide.png
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diff --git a/docs/img/old/2015/09/Esetup1.jpg b/docs/img/old/2015/09/Esetup1.jpg
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diff --git a/docs/img/old/2015/09/eescale.jpg b/docs/img/old/2015/09/eescale.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
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diff --git a/docs/img/old/2015/09/ezero.jpg b/docs/img/old/2015/09/ezero.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
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diff --git a/docs/img/old/2018/08/0102.zip b/docs/img/old/2018/08/0102.zip
deleted file mode 100644
index db02ae00c..000000000
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diff --git a/docs/img/software/crown.gcode b/docs/img/software/crown.gcode
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..0c70b9cc5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/docs/img/software/crown.gcode
@@ -0,0 +1,420 @@
+(Project crown)
+(Created with Estlcam 12.119)
+(Machining time about 00:02:03 hours)
+
+(Required tools:)
+(Pen)
+
+G21
+G90
+G94
+M03 S24000
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+
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+
+(No. 2 Engraving machining: Engraving 3)
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+
+(No. 3 Engraving machining: Engraving 5)
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+
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+
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+M30
diff --git a/docs/img/software/crown.zip b/docs/img/software/crown.zip
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..0af83aac0
Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/img/software/crown.zip differ
diff --git a/docs/img/software/crownGRBL.gcode b/docs/img/software/crownGRBL.gcode
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..cf28b7512
--- /dev/null
+++ b/docs/img/software/crownGRBL.gcode
@@ -0,0 +1,421 @@
+(Project crown)
+(Created with Estlcam 12.119)
+(Machining time about 00:02:03 hours)
+
+(Required tools:)
+(Pen)
+
+G21
+G90
+G94
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diff --git a/docs/img/software/espen.jpg b/docs/img/software/espen.jpg
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diff --git a/docs/img/software/essim.jpg b/docs/img/software/essim.jpg
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diff --git a/docs/learn/software_overview.md b/docs/learn/software_overview.md
index 627739ed1..ec9b271c2 100644
--- a/docs/learn/software_overview.md
+++ b/docs/learn/software_overview.md
@@ -13,7 +13,7 @@ There are 4 components to the workflow and associated software as follows:
| |Step|Software|
|-|----|--------|
|1|Design|CAD (Computer Assisted Design) or Vector Graphics Editor|
-|2|Toolpath Generation|CAM (Computer Assisted Machining)|
+|2|Tool path Generation|CAM (Computer Assisted Machining)|
|3|G-Code Sending|Sender|
|4|Milling|Controller|
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@ There are 4 components to the workflow and associated software as follows:
The output of this step is typically either a 2D file (like a .DXF or .SVG) or sometimes (but not
often) a 3D file (like a .STL).
-[Toolpath Generation](#toolpath-generationcam)
+[Tool path Generation](#tool-path-generationcam)
: This is the step where you take your design, and describe which lines to engrave, which areas to
cut out, and which parts to leave. It defines what "paths" your "tool" is going to take. CAM also is where you will
define what kinds of milling bits you have, and how fast and deep you want to move them through the material. The output of
@@ -33,7 +33,7 @@ There are 4 components to the workflow and associated software as follows:
[G-code Sender](#g-code-sender)
: The g-code is just a list of instructions that define where the tool should go. The software
- used to "play" these instructions is the g-code sender and communicates with the controller. There are a number of options for this software, if you are using the SKR Pro the LCD can act as the sender, or on the Jackpot CNC Controller the built in web interface is usually the sender. Either board can also be hardwared and traditional G-code senders can be used.
+ used to "play" these instructions is the g-code sender and communicates with the controller. There are a number of options for this software, if you are using the SKR Pro the LCD can act as the sender, or on the Jackpot CNC Controller the built in web interface is usually the sender. Either board can also be hardwired and traditional G-code senders can be used.
[Controller](#controllerfirmware)
: The controller is responsible for taking g-code instructions and managing the precise movements
@@ -62,7 +62,7 @@ If you are making functional parts, then you want a CAD tool. The output you wan
.DXF. Imagine you want to make a toolbox, you would draw out each side of the toolbox and export a
.DXF for each face of the box. You care a lot about the size of each side, because it all has to fit
together when you are done. These programs can all create DXF files and they all have a lot of
-information on their use (This is not an exhaustive list, but if you want to add something else,
+information on their use (This is not an exhaustive list), but if you want to add something else,
feel free to [edit this document](../index.md#editing-and-contributing).
- Autodesk Fusion 360
@@ -87,7 +87,7 @@ design and adjust it.
it usable, you can use Inkscape. Try searching for [inkscape trace bitmap
tutorial](https://duckduckgo.com/?q=inkscape+trace+bitmap+tutorial)
-## Toolpath Generation/CAM
+## Tool Path Generation/CAM
@@ -143,7 +143,7 @@ should also be able to command the homing sequence (Most CNC machines don't need
printers because the start location is on the workpiece, not the machine).
The most simple method is to use the built in web interface on the Jackpot CNC controller or the
-included LCD on the SKR Pro, which will take an onbpoard SD card. You can put the file on the SD card, and set the whole thing up on the LCD, and play the file without bringing a computer into the shop.
+included LCD on the SKR Pro, which will take an onboard SD card. You can put the file on the SD card, and set the whole thing up on the LCD, and play the file without bringing a computer into the shop.
The other simple method to do this is with [Repetier-Host](../software/repetier-host.md) or [CNC.js](https://cnc.js.org/).
@@ -157,7 +157,7 @@ image](../electronics/v1pi.md).
The final step is to actually do the milling/cutting. Obviously this is done by the tool at the end of the gantry, but it is facilitated by the controller. The controller takes movement commands, and drives the motors. If you bought the controller from the V1Engineering shop, then it is running Grbl or Marlin. Marlin is designed for 3D printing (and so are a lot of tools we use). Don't be surprised if you see something labeled "print" when you think it should be "cut".
The V1Engineering Shop sells the controllers flashed and ready to use. If you want to update them,
-or you need to change the software for some reason, there are preconfigured versions of all the firmware linked in each boards page here in the documentaion Control/Control Boards/...
+or you need to change the software for some reason, there are pre-configured versions of all the firmware linked in each boards page here in the documentation Control/Control Boards/...
!!! warning
You will see "Arduino" used a lot in discussions around the V1Engineering machines. It is the
diff --git a/docs/lowrider/index.md b/docs/lowrider/index.md
index dd38fc083..c69594b4c 100644
--- a/docs/lowrider/index.md
+++ b/docs/lowrider/index.md
@@ -102,8 +102,8 @@ filaments With great rigidity and added heat resistance are PET-GF/CF and PC-GF/
!!! info
- Printer Skew calibration is suggested, we are trying to make sure parts are vertical and not tilted, this can be done easily with a carpenters square and a tall printed part. Or [Vector3D](https://vector3d.shop/products/calilantern-calibration){:target="balnk"}, makes a wonderful tool. Skew calibration is enough size calibration should not be needed.
- You can also print the two small parts, Z_Stub and Z_Nut to make sure they fit togher easily and you can get the m5 nuts insertes before printing the larger parts.
+ Printer Skew calibration is suggested, we are trying to make sure parts are vertical and not tilted, this can be done easily with a carpenters square and a tall printed part. Or [Vector3D](https://vector3d.shop/products/calilantern-calibration){:target="blank"}, makes a wonderful tool. Skew calibration is enough size calibration should not be needed.
+ You can also print the two small parts, Z_Stub and Z_Nut to make sure they fit together easily and you can get the m5 nuts inserts before printing the larger parts.
@@ -149,7 +149,7 @@ filaments With great rigidity and added heat resistance are PET-GF/CF and PC-GF/
* Brace note- Print Brace_Max_### and one Brace_### at 60% infill. These will be the end braces and benefit from added rigidity.
- * If a part name if followed by a verion number use the highest one. V1, V2, V3... Means there was a fix or edit.
+ * If a part name if followed by a version number use the highest one. V1, V2, V3... Means there was a fix or edit.
!!! warning
Cura based slicers seem to work a little different. Make sure the parts are aligned on your bed as they appear in the Printables thumbnails. Bridging also seems to be a bit of an issue for some of the internal overhangs. It is best to check the "Dust Skirt" and "YZ_Plate" internal features after slicing to be certain the bridges are bridging the short way, not the long way.
@@ -164,7 +164,7 @@ You can assemble the machine using the printed temp strut plates and then use th
[Vector76 Strut Generator](https://vector76.github.io/Web_OpenSCAD_Customizer/strut_plate.html){:target="_blank"}.
-The strut length comes from the calculator, but it will cut slightly smaller (0.5mm) by design.The Wings are refering to the parts that make the plate nearly touch the rails to fill in the gaps.
+The strut length comes from the calculator, but it will cut slightly smaller (0.5mm) by design.The Wings are referring to the parts that make the plate nearly touch the rails to fill in the gaps.
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
@@ -281,8 +281,8 @@ This is what is needed for a 4' x 8' (1.2m x 2.4m) build. You will need more or
|set |XZ Plates | |
|~8m |10mm belt |Use the calc for accurate length for your build |
- * 5 driver board is reccomended
- * Updating to a 24v Power supply is also reccomended if you only have a 12V.
+ * 5 driver board is recommended
+ * Updating to a 24v Power supply is also recommended if you only have a 12V.
---
**MPCNC Primo to LR4 hardware differences for converting your build**
@@ -298,8 +298,8 @@ This is what is needed for a 4' x 8' (1.2m x 2.4m) build. You will need more or
|set |XZ Plates | |
|~8m |10mm belt |Use the calc for accurate length for your build |
- * 5 driver board is reccomended
- * Updating to a 24v Power supply is also reccomended if you only have a 12V.
+ * 5 driver board is recommended
+ * Updating to a 24v Power supply is also recommended if you only have a 12V.
---
@@ -332,6 +332,8 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* This is what the finished assembly will look like.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Start by doing yourself a favor by labeling all the wires before you run them.
@@ -339,42 +341,58 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* Label the wires and not the plugs so they still fit in the control board and you can read them without unplugging.
* Typically, as you face the machine, the left side is Y0 and Z0, and the right side is Y1 and Z1.
+---
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Use the M2.5 screws to secure the crimped or soldered endstop to the Z_Stop_Min/Max part
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Notice what way the lever faces, away from the flat side.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* The nut gets pressed in from the YZ plate face.
* If your nut is not tight you can use a flat head screw driver to hold it in place while tightening in a few steps.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Run the wire through the channel
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Lightly secure the Z stop part with an M5 Screw and nut.
* Start with the assembly in the low position, this will get adjusted later.
-
+
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Run the endstop wire all the way out of the bottom of the YZ plate.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Insert both M5 idler nuts into place
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Add the M5 Screws to hold the nuts into place until later.
* If you have a hard time with the nuts moving a flat head screw driver can help push them into place.
+---
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
@@ -383,46 +401,63 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* The little black fasteners are set screws or grub screws.
* Notice the stepper is on the chamfered / endstop side.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* make sure to label the wire, Y0 or Y1.
* Feed the wire through the channel, make sure you are on the larger side of the hole.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Use two M3 screws to hold the stepper in place lightly, the other two screws come later.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Build the front wheel, both are similar. The heads face outside the machine or down.
* Snug up the large bolts do not crush the part.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Two M3 screws will secure the front wheel and the rest of the Y stepper.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Snug up all 4 stepper screws.
* Make sure the outer faces of the YZ plate and Wheel are flush with each other. You can lay the parts on a flat table with the wheels hanging off the edge to align them before snugging it up.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Load your Y axis belt around the pulley, tweezers or a small screwdriver can help guide it.
* Cut it to length according to the calculator
* You can remove the M5 screws to make this easier
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Add the idlers and M5 screws back into place.
* Seat the screws, but do not crush the plastic or the idler bearings.
* A drop of light oil or lube from the hardware kit inside these bearings can help to extend the life of them.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Wire labeled as Y0 or Y1
* Run the wires through the first channel.
+---
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
@@ -435,22 +470,30 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
You can hang the wheels and lever off the edge of the table if needed.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Run the small wires through the wire keeper first
* Then run the stepper wire to hold them all in.
* If you are having a hard time do not pry the tab, simply push the wires in with your pulley allen key or a flat head screwdriver.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* All the wires should be to the back of the plate.
* Feed them one at a time out of the slot in the slot in the back.
* Some people are finding it easier to run the Z stepper wire first.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* When you get all the wires through, it is best to bundle them.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Use the guide on the top of the YZ plate to align the coupler.
@@ -458,6 +501,8 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* Make sure the stepper is on the endstop side of the plate.
* Tighten the set/grub screw on the flat first, the other.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Run the wire out the back channel.
@@ -466,28 +511,38 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* Bundle for safety.
* Some find it easier to do this wire first then the rest.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* M3 screws to secure the stepper, start all 4 first, then final snug.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Use the sharp edge of the Linear rail to chisel the rail bed smooth.
* Any print artifacts, blobs, or rough spots, should just come right off.
* This simple step makes both rails sit on the printed parts better preventing twists of any kind.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Notice the Y endstop hanging off the table as to not bother the small lever.
* Loosely add all the M3 screws to the linear rails, get the heads just under the rail surface.
* Keep an eye out for off center M3 screw heads, they can be sneaky and make this next step harder.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Add XZ plate using M3 screws to the bearing blocks. Snug.
* XZ max has the large hole.
* XZ Min has the slot at the top, the one that is shown in this picture.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Snug all the rail screws
@@ -495,11 +550,15 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* After the rails are tight, it is a good idea to loosen up the each bearing block and snug it back up.
* That little step always seems to gain a little more smooth action.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Add the T8 Leadscrew to the coupler. Make sure the leadscrew is fully seated and touching the stepper shaft.
* Snug both grub screws.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Add the brass nut to the Z_Nut
@@ -507,37 +566,51 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* This can be a snug fit, use pliers to press fit if needed.
* Thread this on to the leadscrew brass face down
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* The Z stubs get 2 hidden nuts and are secured to the XZ plates with M5 screws.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* The hidden M5 nuts get pressed in and fully seated.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* If you have trouble seating the nuts, you can;
* Press them in with a flat head as shown here (loose print)
* Or you can thread the M5 through the XZ plate and use it to pull them into place (tight print).
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Snug in the Z stubs using the two M5 screws.
* Leave out the cross tensioner screws for now.
* Make sure the Z_nut is already in place.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Assemble the back wheel.
* Bolt heads facing out or down.
* Snug up the bolts.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Be sure to pre-thread the nut on to the screw to loosen up the lock nut before assembly. More than once can help as well.
* Slow and easy on the next step. Make sure not to cross thread the nut is it gets moved and ends up crooked.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Again, be sure to pre-thread the nut on to the screw to loosen up the lock nut before assembly. More than once can help as well.
@@ -546,16 +619,22 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* Make sure the outer faces of both parts are flush.
* Sloppy wheel alignment can lead to the whole beam not being very square to the table If your finished build is sitting crooked this is one place to check.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Make sure the outer faces of both parts are flush.
* Sloppy wheel alignment can lead to the whole beam not being very square to the table If your finished build is sitting crooked this is one place to check.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Take the time to set your Z endstops.
* You want them to trigger just before the bearing blocks hit the top stop block. On both sides.
* You can measure the trigger position from a fixed point to get them really close, this can make Z leveling a bit faster later on.
+
+---
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
@@ -563,6 +642,8 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* Now is a great time to take a photo and share it on some social media.
* You are building a robot that will hold a power tool, everyone needs to hear about that.
+---
+
### Core Assembly
@@ -573,87 +654,121 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* Insert the M5 Tool Holder nuts one at a time.
* Get some filament ready
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* When you insert the filament it can help to cut it at an angle.
* The angle is different for each side.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Make sure it is fully seated all the way into the lower hole.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Clip the filament just above the core's surface, so it can not snag on anything.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Insert the bearings, one at a time with its bolt
* Snug up all but the two bolts that cross the seam at the top.
* The top seam controls the core to rail tension, this stays loose for now.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* The 4 bottom bolts have to have the heads up like shown
* The top bolts can face whichever way you prefer, heads showing is favorable if you are using a vac hose.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Set the X pulley depth
* Tighten the flat grub screw first then the other.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Optional Touch plate
* Run the wires through
* 140mm - 5.5" hanging out is minimum.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Optional
* Run the touch plate wires across
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Run the Endstop wire though
* Did you label both wires?
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Optional
* Run the touch plate wires through to the front
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Secure the endstop, using M2.5x12mm screws, notice the trigger direction.
* 99% of builds are going to use this endstop, homing to Xmin. The location for the endstop located at the left side of the core (when looking at it from behind) are for homing to Xmax (not recommended for beginners, needs changes to the config).
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Snug up the X Stepper
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Run the X belt
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Insert the X idlers
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Well, does it look like this?
- * If so preceed to the next step
+ * If so precede to the next step
* If not, take a break, take some pictures, head to the V1E.com forums.
+---
+
### Beam Assembly
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Gather your Beam parts.
- * If you bought the V1 printed parts set you will notice the two end Braces have a differnt surface pattern.
+ * If you bought the V1 printed parts set you will notice the two end Braces have a different surface pattern.
* If you printed your own, make sure to use the heavy infill on the ends.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Equally space your braces and snap in the rails.
@@ -662,6 +777,8 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* If you already have your strut plate cut, now is your time to shine.
* If you just finished cutting your own strut plate, you have already done this, you don't need my help.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Install the (temp)strut plates.
@@ -669,40 +786,56 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* As you tighten the screws you will feel the clamps start to engage, that is all you need.
* Tubes will still be able to rotate, if you try hard enough you can pull them out.
* Trust, just a tiny bit of tension is all you need.
- * The rails carry no sideways loads, do not overtioghten them, it only causes issues.
+ * The rails carry no sideways loads, do not overtightened them, it only causes issues.
+
+---
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Notice the orientation, there is a screw head cutout.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Only one way this side fits
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Install the bottom temp struts as well.
* No specific orientation here.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Install and fully seat the X belt tensioner nut
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* If you need to you can use the screw to fully seat it.
* Take the screw back out.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* If you use a V1 board box you can use it to mark and then drill the holes in your strut plate
* M3x10 to secure.
* For the temp strut users you can set the box in place with the screws partially installed and it should not move while you cut your permanent strut plates.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Position is not critical, center is probably best though.
+---
+
### Main Assembly
@@ -713,10 +846,14 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* It tends to be easier to hold them with the screwdriver and use a wrench to tighten the nuts.
* Snug....don't crush. It is very easy to leave them a bit light and check them again later.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Looking good right, like you almost have a machine!
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Slide on the core, be sure not to snag any wires.
@@ -725,19 +862,26 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* If you are too tight you will actually start to feel the core get tighter and looser as you cross over the braces.
* The right tension is better than too tight or too loose.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Now you can add the YZ min assembly
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Easy section, admire your work. Some people like to make robot sounds as they drive it around the table at this point.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Okay now is a good time to make sure your heal toe measurements are equal.
* Simply measure across the front of your machine
+---
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
@@ -746,6 +890,7 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* If they are not the machine can wander when not under power.
* The adjustment would be to check your end braces to rail connection and to verify your lower X rail is not actually touching the XZ plate. If it is trim or file your rail a bit shorter.
+---
### Wire routing
@@ -755,15 +900,21 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* Make sure the travel is free, clear, and smooth. The wires should have slack at all positions.
* Cable ties to the braces work well.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Add the extensions from the end furthest from the control board and the Core wires.
* Fold the wires and get ready for tape.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Taping them like this takes all the strain off the connectors
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* This is an easy way to deal with the extra wire.
@@ -771,58 +922,78 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* Secure all wires at each brace.
* All the slack at the furthest section
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Fold up on itself and make a nice bundle. Most builds will have much less extra than this.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Get ready to run the Core wires.
* Secure them to the top of the core.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Wire cover is nice but not needed.
* Leave a small loop at the far end of travel.
* You will be securing it the the brace just past halfway.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Move the core to the far end to make sure your wires travel easily.
* Run it back and forth to make sure it sits well.
* If you use a vac hose you can try this again after that is installed.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Run the YZ Min assembly wires.
* The slack can get bundled on the side or ran behind the board box and bundled on the other side.
* Leave the board box as open to breathe as possible, do not bundles wires inside.
+---
+
### Belts
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* First step to mounting the CNC to the table is setting the Y rail
- * Do your best to make a perfectly rectangular table, but once the rail is set that becomes your referenceand the table edges mean nothing.
+ * Do your best to make a perfectly rectangular table, but once the rail is set that becomes your reference, and the table edges mean nothing.
* The belt holders and Y_Clips all share the outer edge
- * No more than 300mm gap is reccomended.
+ * No more than 300mm gap is recommended.
+
+---
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
- * Pre-drilling is highly reccomended so your parts lay flat on the table when screwed down.
+ * Pre-drilling is highly recommended so your parts lay flat on the table when screwed down.
* You can draw a centerline down the table to make this easy.
* There is +-1.5mm so it has a little wiggle room if you are not perfect.
* Best to set both Y Max belt ends and the first and last Y clips.
* Then measure the remaining gap and equally divide the rest of your clips.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Make sure both Y Min belt holders get a M3 screw fully inserted
* This is for coarse Y squaring adjustment
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
- * Both ends set and predrilled.
+ * Both ends set and pre-drilled.
+
+---
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
@@ -830,69 +1001,93 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* Snug each clip to the table one at a time.
* Use the table edge or any straight surface you might have (a level work well as a straight edge)
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Loop the belt around an M3 screw
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Pull the belt to set the screw and lock the belt
* Notice the end of the belt does come through and has a couple extra teeth showing
* This is the same for all the belts
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Set the Y Min into place
* This is a quick release for removing from the table
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Prepare the Y_Max belt tensioner.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Sink the nut and insert the screw
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Secure the belt with an M3 just as before
* This ends sets the initial tension so it can take a few tries to get the distance right
* Make sure the belt is on the pulley and in both idlers correctly.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* You want the tension to hold the belt taut, but not crazy
* You want 7lbs (3.2kg) tension, it is not as much as you think.
* It will NOT pluck like a guitar.
- * Always best to start loose, if all your parts come out several milimeters small, then you might be too loose
+ * Always best to start loose, if all your parts come out several millimeters small, then you might be too loose
* If you overtighten you can prevent the steppers from turning, you will certainly break parts.
* The parts will break long before the belt does.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Setting the Y min distance can be done from the calculator, or
* Using a piece of belt on the table to set a one belt gap width.
- * Mark and predrill all your holes.
+ * Mark and pre-drill all your holes.
* I used a pencil sharpened by hand to get into the deep holes
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Set the Y stop screw so the endstop triggers just before the LowRider hits the end
* If the endstop gets past the screw there is a good chance you will pop or bend the endstop lever.
* Take your time here. I get a trigger and about 4mm more travel.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Finish this belt just like the max side
* M3's to secure, correct tension
* Y axis squaring gets set later.
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* If you are using a vacuum hose, it is best to set it before attaching the X belt.
* Plug in the tool end
* Route the hose up and cable tie / secure it to the top of the core
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Arrange the hose and wires starting at X max
@@ -900,36 +1095,50 @@ Start the assembly with the YZ plate.
* If you work up against a wall make sure your hose does not touch the wall
* Secure the hose again at just past the halfway point
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
- * Move to X min, and back and forth to get the hose to behave for the entore range of motion
+ * Move to X min, and back and forth to get the hose to behave for the entire range of motion
* You may need to add a bit of a twist one way or the other
* Make sure the hose is never pulled tight
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* The hose should sit relaxed and always fall back in to the cradle.
- * Keep an eye on your wires as well, typically they move differnt from the hose so you can not attach them to each other.
+ * Keep an eye on your wires as well, typically they move different from the hose so you can not attach them to each other.
+
+---
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Now the X belt
* Wrap around an M3 screw
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Push the belt and screw to the bottom with a screw driver
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Load the belt into the X Belt tensioner
* Make sure to get the distance right
* Move the core back and forth SLOWLY to make sure the belt is on teh pulley and idlers properly
+---
+
{: loading=lazy width="600"}
* Tension to ~7lbs (3.2kg) same as before. Loose is better than breaking things.
+---
+
That is nearly it...You are ready to plug it in and take it for a test ride. No more making noises, it will do that itself!!
@@ -938,6 +1147,7 @@ Setting the Z stub distance......coming soon
+
#### Initial Squaring
To square the machine, it is easiest to mark 4 points and measure the diagonal. This is how we set the Y axis homing to square the machine relative to the rail. You will probably need to repeat this a couple of times to get it under 1mm difference. This is a multiplied error, so 1mm or less is very very good.
diff --git a/docs/software/estlcam-basics.md b/docs/software/estlcam-basics.md
index 8c4fd2d04..d33a242f5 100644
--- a/docs/software/estlcam-basics.md
+++ b/docs/software/estlcam-basics.md
@@ -1,84 +1,112 @@
# Estlcam Basics
-[Estlcam is found here.](http://estlcam.com)
{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-**EstlCAM is for generating GCode.**
+**EstlCAM is for making tool paths.**
-This software seems to do everything I want. It also seems to be translated into every language I’ve
-ever heard of, if not you can add translations in the software. The installer is in German I think
-but the options are easy to understand. Please buy a copy if you find this works for you.
+Estlcam seem to be the easiest way to generate CNC tool paths that we can find. Generally this is used for everything except work with lasers, for that [lightburn](../tools/lasers.md/#lightburn) is the better program. This is a low cost program with a mostly unlimited free trial. anything you learn from estlcam will transfer over to other cam software so no time is "wasted" by starting with this program even if you are confident you will use another software package later.
+
+Estlcam is also very easy for everyone here to troubleshoot. If you have CAM issues with other software you are pretty much on your own. Most of us know estlcam very well and can help you get going very easily.
+
+If you are unsure what a tool path or CAM is I suggest taking a look at this page, [CNC Software Basics](../learn/software_overview.md/#tool-path-generationcam)
## Step one – Install Estlcam
-Install Estlcam. Using the default options in the installer, add Icon to start menu and desktop. The
-first window that pops up I set the language, change the display units, and set it to show the feed
-rate in mm/s on the tool popups.
+[Estlcam is found here.](http://estlcam.com) Currently we recommend Estlcam V12.
+
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+
+The installer starts in German, you will be able to change this later.
+
+---
+
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+
+Install Estlcam. Using the default options in the installer, remove the one controller option shown here.
+
+---
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+
+ You will now need to launch Estlcam and continue the setup. In the top menu select Setup/basic setting. Match all the setting shown here, pay close attention to the seconds and minutes selection shown, it is common for people to get this wrong.
+
+ If you are using the Jackpot CNC controller select **"GRBL"** here.
+
+ If you are using the SKR pro or tother older V1 boards select **"Marlin"** here.
+
+ For now other than language it is best just to match all of the settings shown. Only change these later if you understand them completely and have completed a job on your own. If you as for help chances are we are going to ask to see this screen.
After you click okay close Estlcam and restart it to update the settings.
-## Step 2 – Setup
-After restarting Estlcam, open the setup tab, these are the settings from the first window plus a few extra.
+## Step 2 – First Use Estlcam Setup
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-Changing the clearance plane to something a little smaller really speeds up a job since the z axis
-is the slowest. This is how far above the material it should travel to before it moves. You should
-change the milling direction depending on what kind of material you are cutting, more on this in
-another post. Setting the z-axis origin to the top of the material makes it easy to set the home
-position, along with that is program start – at origin. Choosing to end the program “above origin”
-is safe, “above last position” is the fastest.
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+Next menu is "Setup/CNC Programs" Then "Presets" tab. Change the file extension “gcode” so all the programs recognize it.
-In the CNC Program Generation tab, choose Marlin or GRBL ( for the Jackpot). **Important – Set feed unit to mm/min-**. Change the file extension “gcode” so all the programs recognize it.
+---
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-Next up is the travel feed rates. 2100/60=35mm/s, 900=15mm/s (keep the Z low)
+The next tab to set is the "texts" tab. This is where you enter the starting, ending, and tool change setting from the [Milling Basics](../tools/milling-basics.md/#starting-gcode) Gcode section.
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+These will vary depending on your control board, but you can simply cut and paste the sections if you are using GRBL or Marlin.
-I delete all the default tools and use this as a conservative test speed setting for an 1/8″ flat
-endmill in wood. Do not exceed 8mm/s in the z plunge field unless you know what you are doing and
-know what firmware limits you have.
+---
-You are ready to generate some GCode.
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-## Step 3 – 2D gcode, Good for pen plotting or 2D milling (cutting things out)
+In the "Values" tab, It is best to repeat the "F" values on each line, and this is where you set your "rapids" values. The values shown should work for everyone but can be modified later after evaluating your build to save a little time and move faster between cuts.
+
+Click "OK" to save, That is all it takes to get estlcam speaking the language the control board needs. You should not have to change any of those setting often if ever again.
+
+---
-Grid Size. DXF files are crazy sizes sometimes so to make sure your DXF is the right size change the
-grid. Found in **View>Grid** I set mine to 10mm or 25.4mm=1in.
+You are ready to generate some GCode.
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+## Step 3 – 2D gcode, Good for pen plotting or 2D milling (cutting things out)
For this 2D or 2.5D work .DXF files are used. You can use any vector program to make them,
-illustrator, SolidWorks, etc. Get some files from here, (Need a new source, sorry).
+illustrator, Inkscape, SolidWorks, fusion, Onshape, etc.
-I used this one in the [video](https://youtu.be/s8YwkcK3P9U), [Crown Vector](../img/old/2018/08/0102.zip).
+I used this one, [Crown Vector](../img/software/crown.zip), in the [video](https://youtu.be/s8YwkcK3P9U).
Open DXF. **File>Open** – If your DXF is completely the wrong size try again with different initial
units.
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+
+---
+
+This is what the crown looks like, notice there is no indication of size.
-This is what the crown looks like imported in inches as the initial units. This is whatever units
-you save your DXF as.
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+---
## Step 4 – Scale / Re-Zero
+
+#### Grid Size.
+
+DXF files can be crazy sizes sometimes so to make sure your DXF is the right size change the
+grid. Found in teh bottom left hand corner of the screen. I set mine to a number that makes sense for the job at hand, in this case 10mm, or 25.4mm=1in.
+
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+
+---
+
The crown imported at about 55mm wide I want about 150mm wide.
**Select>Resize>Drawing Layers**, then click on the DXF to select it. I scaled the crown 250x to get it
to 150mm (5 3/4″). Zoom out to see your DXF.
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+
+---
**Zero>Create arbitrary point**, then select outside of the DXF paths. This is how to set your origin
(or Home). The little blue plus symbol is what your machine sees as 0,0 (x=0, y=0, generally the
@@ -86,15 +114,23 @@ lower left corner of your work). When you start your program the machine will wo
above where you start it from (represented by the blue plus). Some people like to work from the
center for round or oval objects.
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+
+---
+
+## Step 5 – Make the tool paths
-## Step 5 – Select the tool paths
+Before making a tool path you need to define your tool. For this example I will set it up as a "pen" but this will work with an endmill if you want to live dangerously. Setting the right diameter will help visualize how the job will actually look.
-To use the pen you want to draw on the line so use engrave (tool centered on line), if you were
-cutting a part you can choose part (tool edge on the outside of line), or cutout (tool edge in
-inside of line). Click **Engrave** then just click on each line segment.
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+---
+
+when using a pen you want to draw **on** the line, so use engrave tool (centered on line). Click **Engrave** then just click on each line segment.
+
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+
+---
## Step 6 – Save
@@ -102,37 +138,33 @@ Export. **File>Save CNC Program**. Give it a name. You will get a depth popup, f
less, anything else, set it to the thickness of your material plus a bit to cut all the way through.
You can then preview the path.
-## Step 7 – Control Software
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-Open [repetier-host](http://www.repetier.com) or log into your Jackpot (ssid-fluidnc). load the file you just saved. If you have the bed size
-adjusted you can get a sense of scale.
-If you can’t see the lines in reptier-host check the box "Print Preview>Show Travel moves".
+---
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+If you hold the left mouse button and drag you will get a depth view of your job. Always check this to make sure the moves look right. Red dashed lines are travel moves and should be above your work.
-View it from the edge and you can see that the path is below your z-home, and the movements are
-above z-home.
+{: loading=lazy width="400"}
-{: loading=lazy width="400"}
+---
-Don’t pay any attention as to where it is shown on the bed. It will start where ever your head
-currently is.
+## Step 7 – Running the Code
-## Step 8
+Power up your machine and drive the pen or router to surface of your material. Drive the tip of the pen (or tool) a hair above where you want it to start and start the file you just created.
-Start. Put the tip of the pen (or tool) a hair above where you want it to start and hit run. It
-should pick up, move, drop down and go. If it goes down first and doesn’t pick up between moves
-your z axis is backwards. [Flip the plug](../software/reverse-motor.md).
+It should pick up, move to the start, move down and start drawing/cutting.
## Test File
-[Test Crown 12mm/s GCODE](../img/old/2015/09/Test-Crown-12mms.gcode)– [Test Crown 12mm/s Zipped file](../img/Test-Crown-12mms.zip).
+Marlin, SKR Pro, rambo, ramps - [Test Crown GCODE](../img/old/2015/09/Test-Crown-12mms.gcode)– [Test Crown Zipped file](../img/Test-Crown-12mms.zip).
+
+GRBL, Jackpot - [Grbl Test Crown](../img/software/crownGRBL.gcode) - [Grbl Test Crown Zip](../img/software/crownGRBL.zip)
This all it takes to plot with a pen or do basic 2D (2.5D) milling, some of the most common
things this type of mill is used for. Make sure to adjust your tool and its settings depending on
the material in use. Always do a test cut!
-Here is an old video, the new [Primo pen / knife holder](https://github.com/V1EngineeringInc/MPCNC_Primo_Tool_Mounts/tree/master/Knife_Pen_Mount) has built in spring so you will get even more consistent results.
+Here is an old video