Skip to content

Latest commit

 

History

History
48 lines (33 loc) · 4.33 KB

README.md

File metadata and controls

48 lines (33 loc) · 4.33 KB
Raw

Fidgit_Timer

A DIY kit, purchase at CCHS with laser-cutting and 3D print already done, or optionally for a mark-down, perform laser-cutter and 3D-printer work yourself!

Description of the thing

A prototype for another thing. An example of aesthetics that emerge from the tools one has at hand. ~2000x 1mm diameter ball bearings contained in a black 3d-printed paraboloid-ish shape sandwiched between two 2 mm thick clear acrylic laser-cut sheets, which in turn are pulled together by three sets of bolts that pull into/suspend a plastic 3mm PCB hex-spacer.

a black 3d-printed paraboloid-ish shape sandwiched between two 2 mm thick clear acrylic laser-cut sheets, which in turn are pulled together by three sets of bolts that pull into/suspend a plastic 3mm PCB hex-spacerapproximate 1000x 1mm diameter ball bearings draining from the top compartment of a black 3d-printed paraboloid-ish shape sandwiched between two 2 mm thick clear acrylic laser-cut sheets, which in turn are pulled together by three sets of bolts that pull into/suspend a plastic 3mm PCB hex-spacer

Construction of parts if RDIY (Really Doing It Yourself)

  1. Download the .svg file
  2. Approach a friendly CCHS member and ask for help using the laser cutter with said .svg, sourcing acrylic from the scrap bin or purchasing if needed.
  3. Alternatively, follow the laser cutter documentation: [https://github.com/CCHS-Melbourne/Laser-Cutters]
  4. Download the .gcode file
  5. Approach a friendly CCHS member and ask for help using one of the 3D printers (either Cosmo or Wanda)
  6. Alternatively, follow the 3d printer documentation [https://github.com/CCHS-Melbourne/3D-Printers/wiki]
  7. With the parts (2x base, 1x 3d printed part)

Assembly of kit with all parts present

  1. Put three bolts through one plate and screw one PCB space onto each bolt, about halfway. Make a note of the side the etched circle is on.

  1. Put the base assembly into the plastic bag, scrunched down so that you can easily handle the bits, but not so down that stray ball bearings can bounce out and get lost across your workspace... these little guys are stainless steel or brass (read: non-magnetic, ask me how I know).

  1. Place the 3D print down onto the acrylic base in-between all three bolts, with the plastic stand-offs standing in the air in the middle of the timer's body.

  1. Apply firm pressure to the top of the 3D-print, crack the zip-lock bag, lower inside the top cavity of the timer's body, and slowly pour the ball bearings into the 3D-print. Do not let up pressure

  1. Still maintaining pressure, slide the second base/acrylic cut-out onto the 3D print, in the same respective orientation you noted in step 1.

  1. One at a time, drop the last three bolts through the top plate and thread into the plastic stand-offs. Tighten with an Allen key, but not too tight, the acrylic buckles!

  1. Once all tightened, remove from bag. Optionally adjust the height of the stand-offs between the two bolts for aesthetic purposes.

  1. Optionally, seal the bolts to the stand-offs using clear acrylic.

  2. Flip, enjoy :)

License

CC-BY-NC-SA